Humanity finds itself experiencing a socially complex and mysterious season, between fake news, dystopia and hyper-technology; and wars and hardship persist. There are many channels of knowledge. Fashion is one of them. In the cosmetic society we live in, we must learn to marvel.
Beauty in fashion is never a mystery when it contemplates plurality, connections, diversity, the art of reconciling different thinking. Fashion allies with the jewel which, never before so much as in this season, from an accessory becomes an important co-protagonist in the definition of aesthetic canons: from Haute Fashion New Punk Culture, to Boudoir, to the Gypset Style of the lost-generation, up to the Neo -Classic of French Grandeur, revisited, updated.
Finally, a masculine-feminine wardrobe needs jewels as an essential detail of preciousness. New aesthetic cultures against old paradigms make their way to give us a simple and complex woman, modern, sophisticated, globetrotter at the same time, at ease during the day and in the evening in the outfits that jewels and bijoux help to define. Milan, Paris, two cultures and a single matrix, therefore. Gold, crystals, river pearls, even the “summeriest” turquoise are accompanied by bakelite. Synthetic and natural represent modernity and at the same time the search for the “natural”, traditional coté.
THE GYPSET STYLE
Among the inspiring muses, Frida Kahlo and her use of colour
«Developing a new identity» starting from the very roots of the brand Etro, this is the goal of creative director Marco De Vincenzo, who, after studying the history and the trademarks of the fashion maison, has decided to hark back to the roots of the label, to be found in the fabrics and prints, such as tartan, necktie and paisley patterns.
The 2023-24 autumn/winter collection translates this research into blankets trimmed with flowy fringes, loose-fitting, superlight cape dresses, jackets and coats with very wide necklines, knitwear maxi-dresses with flower applications, dresses with paisley patterns. In a nutshell: THE GYPSET STYLE = Gypsy + Jet Set. Expression denoting a social class, whose unconventional and international lifestyle and panache straddle the lost generation, the hippies and the Victorian style. A style that in the ‘70s was sported by iconic women like Loulou De La Falaise, Jane Birkin, Bianca Jagger… Bijoux- jewels like heart-shaped + rose earrings or with large freshwater pearls are emblematic of a style that is only seemingly casual and informal, but in fact reveals great refinement and rare artistry in mixing shades, materials and shapes. Exotic “Gypsy Queen” style for Schiapparelli with a set of large golden oysters.
Undergarments “on show”
At Milan’s Fall/Winter 2023-24 fashion shows, femininity came to the fore with all its boundless nuances. Among these, the cheekiest and most voluptuous ones, consisting of light dresses, visible lingerie, bustiers and a wealth of lace. The body is revealed, and not too subtly. At maison Gucci: jewel bras and tights have replaced tops and trousers. Pendant earrings in crystal and large freshwater pearls.
At Sportmax we find powder-coloured bustiers – romantic and refined with a sexy edge – matched with an orchid-shaped choker: thin nappa leather strap with painted metal orchid bijoux, fastened with a shiny nickel metal buckle.
ANDROGYNOUS, NEO-PUNK FLAIR
Austere genderless VS provocative and rebellious
On the other side of the coin, we find subtler, intellectual nuances. In catwalks like Valentino’s, an androgynous style – made of oversize blazers, men’s shirts, suits stolen from the men’s wardrobe – stepped to the fore. The lines are rigorous and clean. The fabrics are structured. A reflection on the concept of the uniform, so as to re-propose it under a novel guise: a garment to be worn everyday, not just at work. Or, at least, not where one would expect it. Round golden earrings are the only whim reminding us that the heart of a woman beats behind so much rigour. The neo-punk tribe, which trod the rooms of Hotel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris, also donned showy jewels and tattoos. The face jewels, absolutely genderless, can’t go unnoticed.
YELLOW: POSITIVITY, VITAL AND NECESSARY ENERGY
Energy is what we all need. It’s today’s hip word, epitomised by the colour yellow at Luisa Spagnoli Fall/Winter 2023-24 fashion show. At the core of the collection is a sharp contrast between the minimalism of the ‘90s and maximalist details, exuding character. Thus, a primary colour such as lemon yellow takes centre stage, accompanied by coral red, orange, blue, fuchsia, olive green, the timeless elegance of black, as well as trendier designs, such as spotted colour patterns, for a rebellious edge.
Embroideries and precious stones adorn garments and accessories alike, such as the suede and eco-leopard fur clutches. Lemon yellow Bakelite and amber earrings light up the catwalk.
ARISTO-PUNK SWITCH / SURREALISM
Legacy, Memory and Art
The aesthetics of Moschino’s latest collection, designed by Jeremy Scott for the 2023-24 Fall/Winter, features aristo-punk appeal inspired by Salvador Dalì’s surrealist art. The classics of the Maison founded by Franco Moschino paraded on the catwalk: suits, biker jackets and a deep colour palette, from purple to fuchsia, down to black.
The message of Dalì’s “The Persistence of Memory” – the artwork with the melting clocks – seemed to be blowing like a wind through the garments of this new collection. The hems of the jackets almost seemed to melt, the pied-de-poule was less unvarying than usual. Then, halfway through the collection, a true creative switch: the catwalk was stormed by an emblematic aristo-punk mood – above all in the hairdos – inspired by Westwood, to stage (perhaps) another tribute to the marvellous icon and British visionary.
The jewels made an exception: “dripping”, Dalì-style, and punk too.
“NAPOLEONIC” STYLE, FRENCH GRANDEUR
Among the Palais du Louvre crystals and dazzle
The fashion show for the Fall/Winter 2023-24 prêt-à-porter collection by Giambattista Valli at the Paris Fashion Week featured clean shapes and absolute colours, unmistakably inspired by Josephine de Beauharnais, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. The maison’s two souls, French culture and Roman roots, can be gleaned by the collection’s attires.
The Swarovski bijoux paraded at the show are indeed reminiscent of the Napoleonic style, while, among the accessories, a micro-mosaic pays tribute to the eternal city. It is no coincidence that the designer’s starting idea was the “Les colombes de Pline” mosaic, which was crafted in the XIXth century by the Roman artist Giacomo Raffaelli.