While the 2023 Oscars celebrated the best performances on film, diamonds dominated the red carpet. Statement necklaces, glittering chokers, bold emeralds, hair accessories and antique heirlooms also made a supreme comeback.
A red carpet look at the 95th Academy Awards showcased a prevailing style of monochrome white-dresses with crisp white diamonds. Sparkling statement jewels were plentiful, paired with layers of chiffon, silk, feminine ruffles, tulle to sheer fabrics and minimalist structured column dresses. Leading the charge were Michelle Yeoh, Michelle Williams, Ana de Armas, Zoe Saldana and Naomi Watts, who all looked ethereal in optic white and dripping diamonds. Whereas British actress Andrea Riseborough toughened her pastel pink dress with simply a punky silver ear cuff.
Many of the stars went for full glamour with oversize appliques, bows, trains, with diamonds taking centre stage with accents of coloured gemstones. A slew of eye-catching necklaces in a variety of styles and lengths drew attention to their décolletage. Without question, Bulgari’s timeless high Serpenti necklaces made multiple appearances in different silhouettes and styles, from Cara Delevigne, Phoebe Waller-Bridge to Angela Bassett. Cara Delevigne opted for high glamour in a one shoulder vibrant red gown by Elie Saab featuring a large statement bow and a daring thigh-high slit. She completed her look with a high jewelry Serpenti statement diamond choker in white gold and a sleek updo to show off coordinating diamond earrings with emerald accents and a matching bracelet.
The choker, neck-hugging jewelry trend seems to be riding a new wave of popularity with a resurgence seen at the Oscars. Skipping the long layered necklaces, stars were in favour of a “statement accessory.” Elizabeth Banks chose a rose-gold diamond set choker from Pomellato, while Jenny Slate wore a sparkling choker by Italian high jewelry brand Gismondi, with an asymmetrically placed pear-shaped emerald.
Necklaces were also worn in unconventional ways and transformed into unexpected glamorous hair accessories from Michelle Yeoh to Danai Gurira. Best Actress winner Michelle Yeoh reinforced her reputation for daring red carpet looks, by wearing a spectacular suite of diamonds by Moussaieff with a choker necklace worn not around her neck but in her hair.
Stars also embraced vivid colour blocking with green gems and gowns being a favourite. Chinese actress Fan BingBing made a regal entrance donned in a sparkling gown with silver fringes and dramatic green sleeves. She completed her look with a pair of stunning emerald and diamond earrings to balance the colour proportion of her outfit. Jessica Chastain upped the ante in a structured sequinned gown with a Gucci Hortus Deliciarum high jewelry necklace set with richly decorated tsavorites and diamonds. A sparkling complement to her fiery red locks and luminous porcelain skin.
Endlessly beautiful jewels from the past also took centre stage. Whether it is mixing antique jewelry, or reworking pieces from the archives, it is clear that Hollywood embraces a sustainable movement. Antique and vintage jewels are given a new lease of life when paired with contemporary Haute Couture fashion. Rooney Mara paired her tulle off- the-shoulder chiffon dress with two antique Fred Leighton choker necklaces for an edgy look.
A ray of flaming yellows and oranges was also present among the likes of Sandra Oh who wore a vintage Harry Winston pendant necklace with a citrine centre stone surrounded by sapphires and diamonds. Many actresses, including Deepika Padukone adorned her décolletage with a pear drop yellow sapphire and diamond piece from Cartier, that best flatters her low V-shaped neckline.
Men’s jewelry is no longer a novelty and has become refreshingly creative. There’s a new black tie trend of lapel brooches from Ke Huy Quan, Brendan Fraser to Paul Mescal, which has quickly become an outlet for opulent expression. Vintage and floral motifs in men’s brooches were a popular way to make a statement and add a touch of personality to their tuxedos. Michael B. Jordan doubled up with two dangly Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock coloured gemstone brooches originally designed by Jean Schlumberger in the 1960s. While Paul Mescal in Gucci pinned a Cartier brooch on to his white dinner jacket just below a rose corsage. As fashion and gender norms are becoming more fluid and diverse, male stars and celebrities showed they can embrace and appreciate the beauty and elegance of flowers, birds and natural motifs without compromising their masculinity.
Brooches adorn unassuming places – Janelle Monae wore a classic black choker around her neck, adorned with a diamond flower brooch centerpiece by REZA which made it feel fresh, whereas Giveon styled Boucheron’s Hymenoptera brooch (1944) on the back of his jacket.